Bourges traces its roots back to the Roman era. When Julius Caesar and his legions arrived, they remarked that it was one of the prettiest cities in Gaul. That didn’t stop them from laying siege to the place. You will be visiting the city, not ransacking it, but you will almost certainly agree with the Romans that it is indeed ‘Beautiful Bourges’.

Plenty to see

Bourges Cathedral dominates the skyline. It has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a testament to the city’s rich past. This stunning Gothic masterpiece, with its intricate stained-glass windows and towering spires, was built between the late 12th and the early 13th century on a site that had been an early Christian temple.

The view from the Cathedral’s North Tower is breathtaking. There are almost 400 steps to the top, but it felt closer to a thousand. The tower was completed in 1505 but collapsed and was rebuilt by 1542. It is known as the Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower) because it was financed by ‘donations’ from those who ate butter during Lent. The tower of Rouen Cathedral was paid for in the same way.

You can see the Jardin de l’Archêveché (the Archbishop’s Garden) from the top of the tower. This delightful green space was created in the 17th century by a student of Le Nôtre, the man whose inspiration gave the French gardens of Versailles. The garden is free to visit and well worth seeing.

You will want to visit the Palais Jacques Coeur, a grand mansion built in the 15th century. Coeur didn’t need a butter tax to fund the construction of his Gothic mansion; he was a well-to-do merchant. Inside the mansion is a chapel with a beautiful painted ceiling and outside are two statues that represent Jacques and his wife.

The Musée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France is in the Archbishop’s Palace. It showcases the work of expert craftsmen and women and contains exhibits from more than 200 different trades.

The Musée du Berry is housed in the Hôtel Cujas, a monument built in the 15th and 16th centuries. One of its features is an exhibition about 19th-century life in the region with plenty of artifacts and garments of the day on display.

Plenty happening

Bourges is focused on the present as well as a past. Tourists might visit primarily for the history but the locals just as concerned with the here and now.

Printemps de Bourges is a rock music festival that has occurred each Spring since 1977. About 200,000 people attend over the five days; there’s a significant majority of young people and there’s definitely a party atmosphere.

Les Nuits Lumière is a series of planned nights from mid-May to mid-September, when the town puts on a spectacular light and sound show when the sun sets. Blue solar lights create a trail you can follow to see the free spectacular display of medieval images projected onto the historical buildings.

The Marais de Bourges is a vast area of market gardens and allotments, criss-crossed by canals, which offers a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Some of its 140 acres can only be reached by rowing boat; you can reach others on foot. The Fete des Marais (Marshes Fair) happens early each autumn. It features boat rides, guided marsh tours, music and a fireworks display.

Plenty to do in beautiful Bourges

Cyclorail lets you pedal along an old railway line on specially adapted ‘rail bikes’ through beautiful countryside. You can cross a railway bridge built by Gustave Eiffel’s team, ride over the Loire River and travel along a 40-metre high viaduct. The Cyclorail is an hour’s drive to the north-east from Bourges but worthwhile for a unique workout.

For a few euros, you can drive the Route Jacques Coeur and visit 16 sites, at a reduced price, along the route in Berry Province.

Join the locals for a walk or bike ride at the Plan d’Eau du Val d’Auron, an 84-hectare artificial lake created in 1977. The ‘fake lake’ is less than 2 kilometres from the city centre. In summer, you can even swim in the lake. Be prepared, though; it isn’t heated.

One of my favourite experiences in Bourges was strolling through the Old Town. It felt like stepping back in time. Unfortunately, the Great Fire of La Madeleine destroyed a great number of the old wooden dwellings. Many were rebuilt and today there are about 450 timber-framed houses in the town centre.

Plenty to eat and drink

We always say this but it’s true. You simply can’t go to Bourges without trying the local food and wine. I remember sampling some homemade ratatouille at a charming little café in the old town. Bourges is also known for its Crottin de Chavignol, a delicate blue goat cheese. There’s also a Chavignol wine – a Sancerre – that is that comes from grapes grown on the same land that provides the grass for the goats. At the very least, taste some traditional French pastries or some Forestines de Bourges (local candies).

It must be pretty clear by now that Bourges has ‘plenty’ to offer.

Remember, the key to a great travel experience is planning ahead and leaving some room for spontaneous adventures. Enjoy your trip to beautiful Bourges!

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Information

Hints

• The best time to visit Bourges is during the Spring (April to June) when the weather is pleasant. To experience the Les Nuits Lumière, plan your visit between mid-May and mid-September
• Bourges is a compact city; the best way to explore it is on foot. This lets you appreciate the city’s medieval architecture and charming streets. The city has a reliable public transportation system
• If you’re interested in museums, consider buying a Bourges City Pass. It offers free or discounted entry to several museums and attractions in the city
• Dressing smart-casual is a safe bet. Remember to pack comfortable shoes; you’ll be doing plenty of walking
• Bourges is generally a safe city but it’s important to stay vigilant, especially in crowded areas.
  

LOCATION: In the Cher department, part of the Centre-Val de Loire region.
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 220 km (137m) south of Paris.
POPULATION: 66,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Châteauroux-Centre Marcel Dassault Airport (CHR): 70 km (43m) to the west.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Bourges.
TOURIST INFORMATION: Rue Simone Veil
MARKETS: Several, including traditional markets offering fresh produce, local specialties, and artisanal goods. The popular Saturday market takes place in the heart of the city.
MUST-SEE: The Bourges Cathedral, but if you are already “churched-out” when you visit, the Jacques Cœur Palace might better match your style.