Marseille is a large working port city, and not a quaint, compact historic centre that you will find elsewhere in France.
We wanted to visit Marseille ever since we saw the opening scene of the 1971 film The French Connection, which featured Chez Fonfon in its opening scene. We don’t know what that fictional French drug kingpin Alain Charnier dined on, because we only see him exiting with some of his stooges. When we finally made it to Fonfon, we dined on the delicious bouillabaisse. Our dinner there was a great way to end a day in this exciting city.
When you design your trip to Marseille, you might find that the Vieux-Port is the most useful starting point: it sits at the foot of La Canebière and provides easy access to several major sights. Early in the day, fishing boats still sell their catch along the quay, while ferries and excursion boats leave for the offshore islands. From here, most visitors can cover the waterfront, the Mucem, Fort Saint-Jean, the Cathedral of La Major and Le Panier on foot.
The Mucem, devoted to the history and cultures of the Mediterranean, occupies a modern waterfront building linked by footbridges to the restored Fort Saint-Jean. Even without entering every exhibition, the site is worth visiting for its architecture, gardens and views across the harbour. Immediately inland is Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest district, with steep lanes, stairways, small squares and surviving historic buildings. It is an area made for wandering, but beware of the gradients and uneven surfaces. The nearby Cathedral of La Major is a spectacular large nineteenth-century church built in a striped Romanesque-Byzantine style and is easy to combine with the Mucem and Le Panier.
Notre-Dame de la Garde stands on the city’s highest central hill and provides the clearest overview of Marseille’s geography: the old harbour, northern docks, coastal suburbs, islands and surrounding limestone hills. The interior contains mosaics and maritime votive offerings. The walk from the Vieux-Port is steep and takes roughly half an hour; bus 60 is the less strenuous option. Another important architectural site is Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse, south of the centre. Parts of the building remain residential, but visitors can access designated public areas, including its internal “street” and rooftop, subject to opening arrangements.
For a different side of the city, follow the coast south from the Vieux-Port. The Corniche Kennedy passes sea views, rocky bathing places and the small fishing inlet of Vallon des Auffes. Farther south are the Prado beaches and Pointe-Rouge, both reachable by public transport. Marseille’s beaches are generally urban and practical rather than secluded; several have pebbles or concrete bathing platforms rather than sand.
The Calanques National Park is Marseille’s main natural attraction, but it requires planning. Trails are rocky, exposed and often without shade or drinking water. Access may be restricted or prohibited between June and September due to fire danger, and entry to Calanque de Sugiton requires a reservation for specified summer dates. Check the park’s official access status on the morning of the visit and avoid relying on a car, as parking near the main trailheads is limited.
Boat services from the Vieux-Port also run to the Frioul Islands and Château d’If, the fortress associated with Alexandre Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo. Services can be altered by wind and sea conditions, so allow flexibility. Within the central city, the metro, trams and buses cover most useful areas, but Marseille is spread out: grouping attractions by district will save considerable travel time. A two- or three-day visit allows these areas to be covered without rushing.
The City Pass is worth considering if you plan to be active during your visit. Available for 24, 48 or 72 hours, it offers free public transport via tram, train and bus, a trip on the HO-HO, a mini-train ride, and various admissions and other trips.
