Nancy is the capital of Lorraine and the home of the Art Nouveau movement. You absolutely must see Nancy and the glorious Place Stanislas if you want to see some of the best in the Grand Est.
Although the size of the city means it’s easily navigable on foot, Nancy has an efficient public transport system—mainly buses and trams—that’s convenient for exploring the city and the surrounding areas.
A brief history
Human settlement in the area goes back more than 6,000 years, but it wasn’t until the 11th century that Gerard, Duke of Lorraine, founded the city.
Nancy endured many sieges and wars, under either French or German control, until the 15th century. In 1477, after the Battle of Nancy, the city came under French control.
In the following centuries, Nancy remained part of France, despite periodic invasions. As French power grew under Louis XIV, splendid architecture and fine arts flourished in Nancy.
Wars again brought unrest during the next 200 years until the founding of the Third French Republic in 1870 firmly established Nancy as part of France.
In the late 19th and 20th centuries, Nancy developed into an important industrial, commercial, and administrative centre.
Although Nancy suffered damage during both World Wars, post-1945 rebuilding has restored the city’s historic heritage and character.
Today, Nancy is an important economic and cultural centre in France and the seat of the Council of the European Union whenever France holds the presidency.
Architecture
Nancy is renowned for its splendid architecture, with many styles that span several centuries.
Visit Place Stanislas, an elegant UNESCO-listed square in central Nancy. Featuring elaborate 18th-century wrought iron gates, elegant buildings with bright limestone façades and the landmark Stanislas Fountain, it is one of France’s most visually spectacular public spaces.
As a focal point in Nancy, Stanislas Square buzzes day and night, as tourists and locals socialise in its cafés and brasseries. Take some time to visit Place de la Carrière and Place d’Alliance, with their impressive neoclassical architecture.
Don’t miss the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Nancy. It’s a Gothic masterpiece with exquisite stained-glass windows, towering spires and a vast, calm interior.
Arts and culture
Nancy has a diverse artistic and cultural scene with plenty to engage visitors.
Art Nouveau
The Musée de l’École de Nancy showcases the Art Nouveau movement with a collection that includes furniture, glassware, and ceramics.
Nancy earned its reputation as the capital of Art Nouveau in the late 19th and early 20th centuries due to a fortuitous combination of factors. As glassmaking and other arts-oriented industries flourished in Nancy, an array of prominent artists flocked to the city, which emerged as an incubator for new ideas and artistic innovation.
Several pioneering Art Nouveau artists and architects were based in Nancy – most notably Emile Gallé, the acclaimed glassmaker and furniture designer. Gallé’s lush, nature-inspired designs that emphasise organic form were seminal in defining the emerging style.
Other notable Nancy-based Art Nouveau practitioners were the Daum brothers (glassmaking), furniture designer Louis Majorelle and architects Lucien Weissenburger and Eugène Vallin, who designed many of the most significant Art Nouveau buildings around the city.
The pivotal role of the Nancy School of Art (Musée de l’École de Nancy) and its director, Victor Prouvé, also fuelled innovation. Prouvé promoted new styles and connected artists to patrons who eagerly commissioned works in the whiplash curves and floral motifs of Art Nouveau, ushering the city to the forefront of the movement.
With its innovative artists and practitioners, a supportive local infrastructure and institutions and patronage of the arts, by 1900 Nancy emerged as the world’s Art Nouveau epicentre. Its flourishing scene produced many of Art Nouveau’s most famous and influential works, shaping Nancy’s reputation as the home of this major design movement.
And the rest…
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy has an extensive collection of art works, from Renaissance masterpieces to contemporary pieces. The impressive displays include works by renowned artists such as Monet, Rodin, and Delacroix.
In the old town, the Lorraine Museum holds one of the finest collections of sculpture in France.
The Aquarium specialises in strange and rare fish and has a significant taxidermy collection; the Poirel Gallery is devoted to contemporary art and design.
Cool green spaces
Nancy’s Parc de la Pépinière is a sprawling green space in the centre of town and often dubbed the ‘lungs of the city’. It has manicured lawns, colourful flowerbeds, trees, and ponds.
The Jean-Marie Pelt Botanical Garden has over 12,000 species growing on 35 hectares (87 acres) of land; many are cultivated in the Garden’s tropical greenhouses.
Cuisine
Nancy has plenty of excellent food on the menu. Regional specialties show both Germanic and French influences. You’ll find (and, if you’re smart, you’ll eat) signature dishes such as Quiche Lorraine, made with smoky bacon and Gruyère cheese, and a range of veal and pork products such as pâté en croûte, ham, and sausages.
Local sweet favourites are madeleines (sponge cakes) and macarons. Nancy is also known for its gingerbread and the delicious Mirabelle plum tart.
The area surrounding Nancy produces Carré de l’Est and other specialty cheeses, as well as cloves, honey, and fruits such as kirsch cherries that are often found in local dishes.
You must see Nancy Central Market, open from Tuesday to Saturday in Place Henri Mengin. It’s a good place to start if you want to sample local produce, meat, cheese, and baked goods, which are some of the best you’ll find in the Grand Est. You won’t be disappointed.
Events
In April, Nancy has a large fun fair with rides, games, food, and entertainment.
The International Choral Festival comes to Nancy’s concert halls in April and May and features performances by competing choirs from around the world.
Place Stanislas is the venue for a spectacular night-time sound and light show held in mid-June to mid-September. It illuminates the splendid architecture of the square.
Nancyphonies is the city’s music festival, held each July and August. You can hear dozens of concerts, from classical and jazz to rock, performed in historic venues.
Paper on Place is an artistic festival in September where artists create visual artwork, also on Place Stanislas.
In October, Nancy Jazz Pulsations features performances from renowned jazz musicians and attracts audiences from across Europe.
The Feast of St. Nicolas in early December celebrates the patron saint of Lorraine with markets, music, and children’s activities.
The Christmas Village transforms Place Stanislas into a traditional Christmas market in December. There’s a lot of eating, drinking, shopping, and celebrating.
You definitely must see Nancy, which, by any measure, offers some of the best in the Grand Est region. It will be everything you expected—and more. Put it on your itinerary now.
Information
LOCATION: Grand Est .
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 300 km (186 miles) to the east.
POPULATION: around 105,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Metz-Nancy-Lorraine Airport (ETZ), about 35 km (22 miles) north of the city; Luxembourg Airport (LUX), 135 km (84 miles) away.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Nancy-Ville
TOURIST INFORMATION
MARKETS: Marché Central de Nancy; Saint-Léon Market, for its flea market and antiques.
MUST SEE: Place Stanislas; the museums
