Step over the border from Provence, and find Nîmes. It’s often referred to as ‘the ‘French Rome’. It’s the third largest of Occitanie’s cities. Visit for a day, from Avignon or Arles, to see the major sites. But stay longer if you can. Nîmes is a brilliant place to look and learn. There’s plenty to do and enjoy. You’ll also find answers to the age-old question: What did the Romans ever do for us?
A little history
Nîmes’ known history begins around 28 BCE. The town, called Nemausus by the Romans, stood on the Via Domitia, making it important for trade, military forces and administrative personnel and a communication hub between Rome and other regions of Gaul, especially Spain.
Nîmes and its surrounding area prospered because of its skilled artisans and highly productive agricultural lands – vineyards, olive groves and wheat fields. Nîmes soon became a vital centre in Roman Gaul.
Much later, during the Wars of Religion in the 16th century, Nîmes was a centre of Protestantism. Although Catholic forces attacked and killed many Protestants in the Massacre of Nîmes in 1567, the city remained a stronghold of Protestantism.
During the French Revolution in the late 18th century, Nîmes experienced a period of political and social upheaval. The revolutionaries’ ideas of liberty, equality, and fraternity found support among certain sections of the population. The city witnessed the rise of Jacobin clubs and the establishment of revolutionary institutions. However, Nîmes also had counter-revolutionary activists, with the royalist movement gaining influence in the region. The city saw fluctuations in power and shifting political allegiances during this turbulent period.
The birthplace of denim
The most famous product to come from Nîmes is denim. In the 17th century, weavers in Nîmes developed a sturdy and durable cotton fabric that became known as serge de Nîmes. The fabric was highly valued for its quality and strength.
In the 19th century, Levi Strauss, a Bavarian immigrant in the United States, began using fabric from Nîmes to create sturdy trousers for miners during the California Gold Rush. These trousers became popular workwear and eventually evolved into the denim jeans that are now a fashion staple worldwide.
Remnants of the French Rome
The Arena of Nîmes, also known as the Nîmes Amphitheatre, is a massive Roman amphitheatre, built in the 1st century CE to hold up to 24,000 spectators. It is remarkably well preserved and is Nîmes’ main tourist destination. It hosts concerts, bullfighting events and various cultural performances. You can see the vast arena and explore the underground chambers where gladiators and animals were once kept.
The Maison Carrée (The Square House) is an exquisitely preserved Roman temple, built about 20BCE and dedicated to the grandsons of Emperor Augustus. It is one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world with classical Corinthian columns and decorated friezes. You can go inside and see audiovisual presentations about its history.
For more information, see the Francy That! article Square House In Nîmes Is Squarely In The News.
Les Jardins de la Fontaine (The Fountain Gardens) are a restful green oasis and a historical treasure trove of Roman ruins, including the Temple of Diana. The gardens will definitely remind you of the city’s ancient connections and that Nîmes is the ‘French Rome’.
The Musée de la Romanité showcases artifacts and exhibits related to Nîmes’ heritage as the ‘French Rome’. Musée du Vieux Nîmes covers local history from Roman times to the modern day, and reminds visitors that many famous people past and present have worn denim.
More attractions
Nîmes’ appeal goes beyond its Gallo-Roman past. Don’t miss these superb places.
The Cathedral of Notre-Dame and Saint-Castor, is an example of medieval Gothic architecture. The Cathedral is not, however, the biggest church in town. That honour belongs to the Église St-Baudile. Built between 1867 and 1877, it features two 70 metre spires and can seat 3,000 people. Eglise Sainte Perpétue is an exceptionally beautiful example of the Second Empire style.
Musée d’Histoire Naturelle has a range of preserved animal species, fossils and skeletons. And the Musée des Beaux Arts, an impressive building, has a broad collection of art and sculpture, including a treasured ancient Roman mosaic that was uncovered in 1883 near the Maison Carré.
The Musée d’Art Contemporain (Museum of Modern Art) has permanent and temporary art exhibits from the 1960s to the present day. You’ll find it inside the Carré d’Art (The Art Square), a modern building that also houses the City’s library.
Les Halles de NÎmes is the city’s indoor market, with stalls offering local produce and regional specialities.
Festivals and events
Feria de NÎmes is a lively bullfighting festival that happens twice a year, typically in May and September. It celebrates local traditions and culture and also features parades, music and dancing in the streets.
Cultural Events – concerts, theatre performances, art exhibitions – happen throughout the year. Check what’s on when you are planning to visit.
Festival de la Biographie is a significant event dedicated to biographies and memoirs. This annual festival, usually held in January, showcases various authors and their works, providing a platform for readers to engage with literary figures and explore life stories.
Prominent people
The biographies of these (mostly) well-known people have Nîmes in their chapters.
Alphonse Daudet was a celebrated French writer, born in Nîmes in 1840. He is known for works such as Letters from My Windmill and Tartarin of Tarascon, which depict life in Provence and the South of France.
Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot was a renowned landscape painter, born in Paris but with a strong connection to Nîmes. Corot spent significant time in the city, where he painted landscapes and scenes inspired by the surrounding region.
Henri Pitot was an engineer, born in Aramon, near Nîmes, in 1695. He is known for inventing the Pitot tube, which measures fluid velocity in applications such as aviation and fluid dynamics.
Jean Nicot was a diplomat and scholar who served as the French ambassador to Portugal in the 16th century. He is famous for introducing tobacco to France after bringing it from Portugal. The tobacco plant, Nicotiana tabacum, was named after him and the word ‘nicotine’ is derived from his name.
François d’O, a prominent French poet and writer, is also associated with Nîmes. His literary works reflect the beauty and history of the region, making him a cherished figure in Nîmes’ literary tradition and cultural heritage.
Émile Espérandieu was an architect of great importance. He played a pivotal role in the restoration and preservation of Nîmes’ Roman heritage. His efforts made sure that structures like the Arena of Nîmes and Maison Carrée remain beautifully preserved and future generations can admire the ‘French Rome’.
Jean-Paul Fournier, elected Mayor of Nîmes in 2001, has been instrumental in promoting the city’s cultural heritage and various development projects to enhance Nîmes’ appeal.
Nîmes cuisine
Nîmes might be the French Rome but city’s cuisine reflects the flavours and ingredients of the whole Mediterranean region. It’s a great place to get your teeth into some local specialities and tastes from neighbouring areas, too.
Brandade de Nîmes is a traditional dish made with salt cod, olive oil, garlic and potatoes. The cod is soaked, cooked and blended with olive oil and garlic to create a creamy tasty spread. It is often served with bread or as a filling for savoury pastries.
Gardiane de Taureau is a traditional stew popular in the region. It is made by slow-cooking bull meat in red wine, herbs and spices, resulting in a rich and tender dish. It is often served with rice or polenta.
Croquants de Nîmes are traditional biscuits made with almonds, sugar and egg whites, resulting in a crunchy and sweet treat. Croquants de Nîmes are perfect for enjoying with a cup of coffee or as a snack.
Nîmes is known for producing Picholine olives, which are small green olives with a slightly fruity, tangy flavour. They are often used in local dishes and in tapenade, a spread made from olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil.
Further afield
Just 50 kms from Nîmes is the Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct bridge built on the River Gardon in the first century CE to carry water to Nîmes. It is the tallest and one of the best preserved structures of its type.
Arles is close by and is a must-visit place – for history, architecture (its stunning colosseum and ancient Roman theatre) and for the key places in the Vincent Van Gogh story.
Information
LOCATION: Occitanie region of southern France.
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 710 km (441m) south of Paris.
POPULATION: 150,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Nîmes-Alès-Camargue-Cévennes Airport (FNI has domestic and limited international flights. It is located about 15 km (9m) southwest of the city centre.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Nîmes
TOURIST INFORMATION
MARKETS: The Marché des Halles is open on Fridays and Saturdays. Additionally, there are various open-air markets held throughout the city.
MUST SEE: The Nîmes Arena
