Rennes is the capital of the Brittany region, located on the Vilaine River around 35 miles from the northern coast. Given its location, it is not surprising that, historically, it has often been the centre of the action.
Centre of the action in history
The Romans took Rennes in the 3rd century CE, and the Visigoths, Bretons, and Franks had a crack at it too. By the 9th century, the town was the capital of the Duchy of Brittany.
Over the next few centuries, while Rennes continued to expand, it remained a target, captured several times during the conflicts between Brittany and France. In the 15th century, that struggle ceased after the marriage of Duchess Anne to the French King Charles VIII.
In 1788, the Parliament of Brittany convened in Rennes to elect deputies to the Estates-General. This helped set the stage for the Revolution (1789). Throughout the Revolution years, Rennes witnessed civil disorder, peasant revolts, mass conscription, purges of clergy and the dissolution of the historic Parliament. There was chaos and counter-revolution. Rennes was definitely at the centre of the action.
Better days were coming. In the 19th century, Rennes was industrialised and modernised. The printing industry thrived and the city became the centre of action in publishing and ‘media’. Railway transport arrived in 1857, connecting Rennes to Paris and stimulating industrial growth. Workshops and factories emerged, producing shoes, linens and hats. Rennes was also known for its flour-milling industry in the late 1800s. The city expanded and its population grew.
In World War II, Rennes was again at the centre of the action. Its industrial status and its railway junction made it a target for heavy bombing. Allied raids, starting in May 1940, damaged the railway system, airfields, aeroplane factories and bridges, so as to disrupt German supply lines. On 9 June 1944, a devastating aerial attack demolished parts of the historic city and killed over 1,000 people who were seeking shelter in makeshift tunnels.
Rennes was liberated in early August 1944. The extensive damage meant there was significant rebuilding and renovation efforts after the war. The city eventually recovered its economic and cultural balance.
Today, Rennes is a thriving cultural and economic ‘centre of the action’ in business, digital technology and learning.
Rennes’ attractions
Rennes has a rich architectural heritage that reflects its long history. The old town still has medieval half-timbered houses, especially around the Rue Saint-Michel.
In 1720, French architect Jacques Gabriel rebuilt parts of the city that had been destroyed by a massive fire. He designed elegant squares, buildings and walks in the classical French style. One of his most famous contributions was the Place de la Mairie, a majestic square surrounded by beautifully proportioned buildings. His other works included the Rennes Town Hall, the west façade of the Rennes Cathedral, Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Rennes and the landscaping of the gardens of the Parliament of Brittany.
Gabriel’s architectural vision helped make Rennes a sophisticated cultural capital that balanced grandeur and functionality. His neoclassical designs created a visual harmony and unity that still define much of Rennes’ urban landscape today.
A notable 20th-century structure is the Opera House, built on the Place de La Mairie.
There are lots of green spaces in Rennes. Beautiful Thabor Park has botanic gardens, a rose garden, an orangerie, a zoo and an aviary.
Rennes’ rivers and canals also offer pleasant spots for walking or cycling. The city’s botanical garden on the banks of the Vilaine River showcases local and exotic plants.
Another haven is the Parc du Berry, which features a small lake.
If you go just outside the city, the Valley of the Ille River is a favourite for its hiking trails. The Forêt de Rennes is a large forested area with native plants and animals and pleasant picnic areas.
Museums
Rennes has a lot to offer for those who want to find out more about the history, culture and artistic heritage of the city and the region.
- The Musée des Beaux-Arts is located in a striking 17th-century abbey. In its collection you’ll find work ranging from ancient times to the 21st century, including Egyptian artifacts, Renaissance paintings, baroque sculptures, drawings by Picasso
- At the Musée de Bretagne you can immerse yourself in the history of Brittany. There are exhibits covering prehistory and the Middle Ages, with a focus on traditional Breton life and artisanship. Visitors particularly enjoy the archaeological finds and interactive displays
- The Espace des Sciences presents adventures in science and technology, especially for kids. It has a planetarium and hands-on exhibits, with experiments and touch-screen technology
- The Eco-Musée du Pays de Rennes is a farm in the middle of the city where you can learn about the history and traditions of the area. Your tour of the farm will take you through five centuries of day-to-day life of the men and women in the 40 villages and communities that make up the Rennes area today
- The Musée des Transmissions has displays of communication technology from the 18th century onwards, including telegraphs and early broadcasting equipment
- The Musée de la Compagnie des Indes sheds light on France’s 17th–18th century trade with Asia with a collection of art and artifacts.
Centre of the action all year
Rennes hosts a robust calendar of cultural events and festivals throughout the year.
- In March, the Travelling Carnival parades provide family-friendly entertainment
- In July, the historic streets of Rennes come alive with performers and spectators for the Fête de la Musique – a music festival featuring free outdoor concerts, from classical to jazz to rock
- Also in July, the city hosts France’s famous rock music festival, Les Vieilles Charrues, a four-day event that attracts huge crowds and top international acts
- During several weeks over the summer (mainly June and July), the popular Les Tombées de la Nuit festival stages circus acts, theatre, dance and pyrotechnic shows in the streets and parks of Rennes
- For sports fans, the Brittany yachting race Tour de France à la Voile sails into Rennes in July
- One of the biggest events is Les Rencontres Trans Musicales, an eclectic music festival held every December, since 1979. It showcases up-and-coming artists in indie rock, electronic and world music, with concerts and events around the city.
People
Rennes has been home to many influential historical figures in various fields:
- In politics, Maximilien Robespierre, one of the best-known and most divisive figures of the French Revolution, was born and educated in Rennes
- Scientist and philosopher René Descartes (‘I think, therefore I am’) studied law at the University of Rennes early in the 17th century
- The 17th-century mathematician Pierre de Fermat, best known for Fermat’s Last Theorem, served in Rennes as a lawyer and advisor
- Prominent painter Jean Frélaut and sculptor Jean Boucher were born in Rennes in the late 19th century
- 20th-century poet Guillaume Apollinaire lived and worked in Rennes for several years
- Surrealist artist Max Ernst also studied philosophy in the city, before World War I.
Cuisine: also at the centre of the action
The cuisine of Rennes reflects the culinary traditions of Brittany. As an inland city, it tends to use fish and seafood products less than meat and dairy products.
A signature dish is galettes (savoury buckwheat crêpes) filled with eggs, cheese, meat or vegetables.
Another local favourite is the Rennes-style crêpe filled with andouille sausage. This coarse pork sausage is also featured in dishes such as andouille risotto.
Rennes is known for its charcuterie, particularly hams, and for its preparation techniques such as salting, smoking, and curing. These foods appear in terrines, pâtés, and rillettes (preserved shredded meats). Hearty stews and potées (hotpots) incorporating pork, beef, or lamb are also popular.
Local desserts include sweet crêpes, often served with cider, caramel au beurre salé (salted caramel), and pastries, such as the buttery caramel Kouign-amann cake, made with sweet bread dough.
Brittany’s apple orchards provide ingredients for apple tarts, cakes and cider.
Traditional Breton flavours have influenced many chefs and home cooks. Rennes’ food scene is still about these traditions, but many restaurants also offer contemporary French and international dishes.
Rennes has France’s second-largest market, Marché des Lices. Its history spans more than 400 years. Every Saturday morning, about 100 vendors set up stalls and tents and sell fresh produce, meat and fish, breads, local delicacies such as cider and galettes, flowers, clothing, crafts and more.
Marche des Lices attracts both locals and visitors. It’s one of Rennes’ most beloved institutions. You’ll enjoy the atmosphere as well as the produce at this traditional French market.
Further afield
One look at the map will make your eyes light up. There are lots of destinations easily accessible from Rennes.
- Go to the historic port city of Saint-Malo. This old walled city, with its beautiful beaches, is less than an hour away
- The stunning tidal island monastery of Mont Saint-Michel is also about an hour’s drive from Rennes. You can’t be in the area and miss seeing it
- The medieval town of Vitré, with its well-preserved castle, half-timbered houses, and church, is even closer (42 km)
- Dinard is a picturesque fishing village and a popular seaside resort. It’s about 90 minutes from Rennes
- A little further away, the ancient Celtic ruins of Carnac, with their mysterious stone alignments, are about an hour and a half away, on the coast, to the south west
- Rennes is also a great base for exploring Brittany’s hiking trails and many small villages you’ll see along the way.
Information
LOCATION: Brittany, on the Ille et Vilaine Rivers.
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 350 km (217 miles) to the west.
POPULATION: 221,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Rennes–Saint-Jacques Airport (domestic and limited international flights); about 8 km (5 miles) southwest of the city centre.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Rennes
TOURIST INFORMATION
MARKETS: The Marché des Lices, on Saturday mornings.
MUST SEE: Rennes Cathedral; the museums;
