The thing I remember most about my time in Brest was the fog. It was the last week of April and I flew in for a business meeting. The plane landed in fog and I crossed the tarmac in fog, struggling to see anything – even my shoes. A few hours later, the fog had lifted, but so had I, on the return flight to Paris. A few years later, I was able to see the best of Brest (literally) in more relaxed circumstances.
Brest is Brittany’s only seaport and almost the westernmost point of France. There is plenty you can see and do in a two-day visit. It’s all about history, culture and leisure.
The best of Brest: historical sites
Brest has an important maritime history which has given the town its distinctive flavour since the seventeenth century. Today, it is still an important military port.
The Castle
The Château de Brest lies close to the mouth of the Penfeld River. It’s an important historical site, with its ancient walls and structures offering clues about its past role in the defence of the town. The staff at the on-site National Maritime Museum (Musée National de la Marine) can fill you in on all the history. Or some of it! The fortress is 1700 years old and still serves as a military and strategic post. It is, in fact, the oldest castle in the world still in use.
The Tanguy Tower
Tour Tanguy is another historical site, just across the river from the castle. It offers panoramic views of the city and its harbour. Inside, you’ll find the Musée de la Tour Tanguy, a collection of dioramas that depict the city of Brest on the eve of World War II.
The National Maritime Museum
The Musée National de la Marine is located in the ancient Château de Brest. Here you will find a vast collection of maritime artifacts. Don’t forget to check out the old sailing ship figureheads and the collection of ship models. The museum is also positioned to offer stunning views of the harbour.
The best of Brest: local culture
Be tempted by the cuisine
Brittany is famous for seafood – especially its shellfish. In Brest you can sample the best of it. Make sure you try the local oysters, harvested in la Rade de Brest , the sheltered bay on which Brest lies. Leave room for mussels, crab and lobster – all local specialities.
Breton crêpes are possibly the original and the best. In Brest, go to Le Blé Noir – a crêperie inside the Botanical Gardens (see below) – where you can try superb Breton galettes and crêpes. While you’re there, of course, you can see the beautiful garden displays and some rare plant species.
The butter made in this area is also the best you’ll taste. We were given several theories explaining why but, in the end, the proof is in the tasting. Spread it, whip it, melt it or ‘foam’ it … it’s brilliant.
French cakes are art for the mouth. A Paris–Brest is made of choux pastry and has a praline flavoured cream, covered with flaked almonds. Its circular shape represents a bicycle wheel and it was named in honour of the Paris-Brest-Paris bicycle race, dating from 1891. Eat one when you’re in Brest (or Paris). Where better?
Try a brew or two
Take a walk along rue de Siam and rue Saint-Malo for a sip of local culture. Both streets are lined with bars and pubs offering a variety of local and international brews.
Cafes and brasseries try to outdo one another in offering a wide range of ales and beers. En Bières Inconnues is almost at the other end of the spectrum; it is a microbrewery offering limited output but runs beer-making workshops for individuals and groups. Under specialist supervision you can ‘brew your own’ batch, bottle and label it and take it home. The website is in French.
The Bretons are hugely proud of their apples – and not just for eating. Have a glass of locally made cider with just about any food you try.
Enjoy the arts
Le Quartz is Brest’s well attended national theatre. You can see drama, dance, music concerts and family shows. See the program.
There’s also a whole range of art and cultural activities at the Capucin Workshops (Ateliers des Capucins). See the program, in English
If you’re into live music, check out La Carène, a popular concert venue in the town. Find out what’s on.
The best of Brest for relaxation
Take a cruise
For a different view of Brest, go on a night-time harbour cruise. You’ll have stunning views of the city’s skyline and the surrounding landscapes.
Take a walk
If you prefer to stay on land, and you’re looking for some peace and quiet, try a coastal walk. You can make your way along any part of the Brest coastline, which is well known for its beautiful beaches. Try Moulin Blanc Beach (Plage du Moulin Blanc) and Trez Hir Beach (Plage de Trez Hir), where you can also watch, or get involved in, a range of water sports.
You can also walk across the Plougastel Bridge, also known as Pont Albert-Louppe, which was built between 1926 and 1930 to span the Elorn River. The bridge is mainly for pedestrians and cyclists, including those in the Paris-Brest-Paris race. It isn’t a long hike (about 888 metres) but it gives a great view of the much more recent Pont de l’Iroise, a cable-stayed bridge, completed in 1994, which runs parallel to it.
Go wild
Make sure you visit the Botanical Gardens (Jardin du Conservatoire Botanique National de Brest), which are home to a vast collection of endangered plants from around the world. Built on a former quarry, this 30-hectare site has a mild climate, steep slopes and a good water supply, which means plants from all over the world can enjoy the best of Brest, too. Parts of the site are carefully cultivated and some are left in a semi-wild, natural state.
You can walk around in the tropical greenhouses and see some of the world’s rarest and most endangered plants. As someone whose interest in botanicals is mainly about which species are in the gin I’m drinking, I was impressed.
Visit the ocean park
If your taste is more ‘animal’ than ‘vegetable’, visit Oceanopolis, a massive ocean discovery park where you’ll find more than 1,000 different marine species. From penguins to sharks, the centre is an immersive experience and a fascinating insight into the underwater world. Don’t miss the tropical and polar pavilions.
There’s more information at the Oceanopolis website.
A couple of tips to help you experience the best of Brest:
- Pack for the weather. Brest has a maritime climate, so it’s best to pack a mix of light and warm clothing. Don’t forget your raincoat!
- Learn a few French phrases: Although many locals speak English, they’ll appreciate your effort to communicate in French.
Information
LOCATION: Brittany, on the Atlantic coast.
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 600 km (372m) west of Paris.
POPULATION: 139,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Brest Bretagne Airport (BES), located about 10 km (6m) northeast of the city centre.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Brest.
TOURIST INFORMATION: 8 Av. Georges Clemenceau.
MARKETS: The Saint Louis Market (Marché Saint Louis) for fresh produce and seafood; Halles Saint-Louis – a covered market for regional specialties.
MUST SEE: Brest Castle; Tanguy Tower; the maritime museums; the coastline; the Botanic Gardens.
