If you head to Nantes, you’ll find a modern city with a storehouse of history and plenty of fun activities. Definitely put it on your must-visit list.
A brief history
Nantes was originally the home of the Namnetes people. When the Romans settled there, the bonuses were new goods from around the Roman Empire and amenities such as sewers, public baths and a temple. Nantes remained allied with the Empire until it was captured by the Franks in the 5th century.
Later it came under Breton rule and part of Brittany. Nantes’ great castle, built in the 10th century, was the home of the Dukes of Brittany for 500 years. The city became an important Atlantic port and a centre of shipbuilding.
The 15th century was Nantes’ first ‘Golden Age’. The University of Nantes was founded and the Dukedom was unified with France. The city became wealthy, especially from trade.
Industry strengthened its position and it became known for metallurgy, food processing (especially biscuits), and manufacturing, especially cotton fabrics.
Nantes suffered heavy damage during World War II but it recovered and was rebuilt to become an important city and the 6th largest in France.
Head to Nantes’ main attractions
Castle of the Dukes
The Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne, with its high walls and towers, certainly looks like a defensive fortress but its interior has all the luxuries of a ducal palace.The buildings are set around an open courtyard within the walls, in a wide range of styles dating from the 14th to the 18th century.
Museum of Nantes
The Castle is the home of the extensive Museum of Nantes, which has exhibits tracing the history of the city and the region from earliest times to the present.
The Arts Museum (formerly the Fine Arts Museum)
The Musée d’Arts de Nantes is in the city centre. It was founded by Napoleon in 1801, as a collection of works ‘acquired’ (post -Revolution) from royal collections, churches and convents, and those donated by private collectors. It was opened to the public in 1830.
The city later decided to give it a new home and built a stunningly beautiful place, which opened in 1900. It would be worth visiting just to see the building. Recently, it had major renovations and upgrades and reopened, with a new look, in 2013. The museum has a collection that represents nine centuries of the arts, including modern and contemporary pieces.
Jules Verne Museum
Fans of Jules Verne will want to visit the museum in the beautiful 19th century house where the writer was born. It holds documents and artifacts that tell the story of his life and work.
I was born in Nantes, where I spent nearly the whole of my childhood…. I lived in the maritime bustle of a big commercial city which is the starting-point and goal of many long voyages. I still see the river Loire… its quays encumbered by freight in the shadow of huge elms….
(Jules Verne, My Boyhood )
Nantes’ religious heritage
Christianity was introduced to the region in the 3rd century and its first basilica was built in the fourth century, on the site of the current cathedral. You’ve probably heard of the Edict of Nantes.
In April 1598, King Henry IV, who had been a Protestant before converting to Catholicism, issued a declaration of religious tolerance that granted rights and protections to the Protestant Huguenots. He wanted to end the Wars of Religion that had plagued France for decades and during which Nantes had changed hands several times.
The Edict of Nantes supported Catholicism as the established French religion, but granted rights to the Protestant minority. Nantes was already a Catholic stronghold and remained so.
Cathedral of Saint-Peter and Saint-Paul
Close to Nantes Castle is the Gothic Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul de Nantes, which took more than 450 years (1434-1891) to build. It stands on the site of an older Romanesque cathedral. It has two 63 metre high square towers on either side of an ornately decorated entrance. The high interior is bright and light, with exquisite stained-glass windows. Also inside the cathedral are the tombs of Francis II, Duke of Brittany, and of his wife. It is listed as one of France’s historic monuments. At night, the Cathedral is beautifully lit up and well worth a visit.
Church of the Holy Cross
The elegant Église Sainte-Croix de Nantes was built in the 17th century, in the Classical style, with intricate decorations and stone columns. Its much-photographed bell tower, has an ornate clock, which is illuminated at night by the beautiful lantern, surrounded by a circle of trumpeting angels.
More reasons to head to Nantes
Ile de Nantes
The Île de Nantes (Nantes Island) is in in the Loire River. It has mainly modern buildings – such as the new Law Courts – and interesting features that focus on industry and artistry.
The Machines Gallery (Les Machines de l’île) is also on the island. It’s a huge glass indoor-outdoor site featuring giant mechanical animals and sculptures, including a massive mechanical elephant. See more great pictures on the website.
Le Lieu Unique
A big attraction in Nantes is Le Lieu Unique (The Unique Place or LU). You should definitely visit this converted biscuit factory. Since 2000, it has been a cultural centre, with artists’ spaces, shops, a bar, a restaurant, a nursery and Turkish baths.
You’ll see the LU Tower first; you can’t miss it. It was built in 1909, to advertise LU biscuits, which were made in Nantes from 1846. The biscuits – especially le Petit Beurre – and the tower have become symbolic of Nantes. The LU Tower stand 38 metres high and is beautifully decorated with classical figures and signs of the zodiac. You can take a tour, to learn about the building’s history, through photo and video images; from the dome of the tower, you’ll have excellent views of the whole city.
LU still makes biscuits, but it’s now an international brand, owned by a US company.
Parks and gardens
Just north-east of the Castle and Cathedral are the Jardin des Plantes, which cover seven hectares (16 acres) and contain a broad range of plants, in well designed gardens and tropical greenhouses.
The Japanese Gardens on the island next to the Quai de Versailles contain some lovely specimen trees from Japan and carefully laid out water features.
Another interesting garden is the Parc du Grand Blottereau, to the east of the town centre.
The Jardin Extraordinaire de Nantes has been created in an old quarry and features cliffs, waterfalls and luxuriant plantings.
Shopping
The Passage Pommeraye is a beautiful shopping arcade with a stunning architectural design.
The Talensac Market (Marché de Talensac) is the oldest, largest and one of the most popular markets in the city. It has offered a wide variety of fresh vegetables, meats and seafood since 1937. The Bouffay and Doulon districts also have popular markets, open at weekends.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Nantes at Christmas time, the Nantes Christmas Market (Marché de Noël de Nantes) is the place to go for seasonal food treats – gingerbread men, roasted chestnuts, waffles, mulled wine and hot chocolate. There are also gifts, toys and Christmas decorations. The market is held in the centre of town, in Place Royale.
Cuisine
Because of its location, fish and seafood feature strongly in Nantes’ cuisine. Head to Nantes’ restaurants for its specialities: trout, zander (similar to perch) and pike. You should definitely try:
- The famous moules de bouchot , delicious mussels that are cultivated on wooden posts standing up in the sea. They are prepared in a variety of ways, such as moules marinière, cooked in butter, white wine and herbs, or gratinées, topped with tasted cheese and bread crumb
- Oysters, such as those from the Gulf of Morbihan; there are many other varieties. Just ask
- Sardines à la Nantaise served with butter, vegetables and herbs. Even the tinned ones are superb!
The area is also known for its tender grass-fed meats like beef, lamb, duck and rabbit. These meats are often prepared in wine or cider-based sauces. Look for Challans duck (Nantes duck) – a red-fleshed, free-range duck which is said to be a cross between local ducks and mallard drakes. Served with a muscadet sauce.
Rich buttery sauces and creamy cheeses showcase the dairy products of the region. Specialty items include:
- Beurre blanc sauce, a velvety emulsion made with reduced vinegar and butter; it’s a perfect complements to seafood and meats
- Curé Nantais, a soft cheese with a pale yellow rind. Enjoy it simply with bread and locally made butter.
Nantes is also known for its buttery pastries and desserts:
- Taste the delicious gâteau nantais, a moist almond cake flavoured with rum
- Rigolettes were invented over a century ago by Charles Bohu. These sweets have a hard, crunchy outer shell of sugar, filled with fruit pulp in a wide range of flavours – pineapple, blackcurrant, lemon, raspberry and mandarin
- Nantes salted butter caramel is an ingredient in many baked goods and desserts, from cakes and crêpes to ice cream.
Further afield
- Clisson has a beautiful medieval castle that was largely rebuilt in the Italianate architectural style about 250 years ago (35 km)
- Les Moutiers-en-Retz is a small town best known for the nearby beach which attracts many summertime campers (47 km)
- Le Chateau de Tiffauges is a 12th century castle in Vendee. It was once the home of the atrocious ‘Bluebeard’. Today you can be involved in (non-violent) medieval spectacles. Find out more. (60 km).
Look for more Francy That suggestions for Places To Go.
Information
LOCATION: Pays de la Loire, on the Loire River.
DISTANCE FROM PARIS: 340 km (211 miles) southwest of Paris.
POPULATION: 309,000+
NEAREST AIRPORT: Nantes Atlantique Airport (NTE), about 8 km (5 miles) southwest of the city centre.
NEAREST TRAIN STATION: Gare de Nantes.
TOURIST INFORMATION 9 Rue des États.
MARKETS: Talensac, Bouffay
MUST SEE: Château des Ducs de Bretagne; Île de Nantes, places of worship.
